25.0 - Prosthetics
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Prosthetics is defined as an item that is applied to the body, to enhance its appearance. The term also applies to appliances and masks. Its uses are not always limited to the face, but also other body parts. It is not unusual to hear about a full-body appliance, as in the case with some movies made today.

Again, the warning with allergies to latex applies here.

Prosthetics/appliances sources - See section 99.4 .

Makeup sources - See section 99.7 .

Latex Mask Central on how to protect your mask against degradation - http://www.latexmaskcentral.com/MaskDoctor.php

25.1 - Types of appliances/prosthetics
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Slushcast latex/cold foam
The first kind is slushcast, also known as cold foam, which is either a two-part foam mixture, or just plain liquid latex with many layers. This is the simplest, which makes for some nicely-detailed masks, and other small appliances. Woochie/Cinema Secrets is the most common maker of these. The drawbacks of this is that in the case of the full-head pieces, it becomes hot, as latex is known to do, as it does not breathe.

Foam latex/hot foam
The second is foam latex, also known as hot foam. This is one of the most complex things you can make, as it requires a 3- to 5-part process, and also requires that you bake it in an oven for anywhere from 2 to 6 hours, or more, depending on what you're doing. The major advantages to this is that it moves with you, and that it breathes, allowing you to have it on for long periods of time, and you can eat, drink, talk, etc., in it without too much trouble. This is what gives these particular appliances their lifelike look.

Gelatine

Silicone

Cotton ball/latex buildups

25.2 - Adhesives used with appliances
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Spirit Gum
Spirit gum is one of the cheapest, and is an all-around favorite, for those who will have on their appliances for a short time. Simply apply it to the piece, let it become tacky, and apply to where you want it. However, it's not waterproof or sweatproof. In heavy sweat, it's been known to crystallize, and that doesn't feel too good against your skin.

Prosthetic adhesive/pros-aide
Next is prosthetic adhesive, or pros-aide. This is a milky white substance, that is similar to what Lyonshel Studios supplies, if not the same thing, with their appliances. You apply it to the appliance, and possibly to yourself as well, let that dry, and add a second coat. When that's dry, carefully put the appliance on you. This is not the easy part, since it will stick to you, no matter what.

Medical Adhesive/surgical adhesive
Medical adhesive, also known as surgical adhesive, is the favorite among makeup artists, as it's quite strong. It's known to outlast the wearer. When boogi wears his Mutant Cat, it's not unusual for him to wear it for 15 hours straight without a touchup of the adhesive. It's that strong and long-lasting. It's also the most expensive, going for around $18-25 for a fluid ounce, with a 4-ounce bottle around $60-65. Kryolan makes this.

Telesis
There's also Telesis, which is like medical adhesive. This is more resistant to water and sweat, though not as strong as medical adhesive. Application is the same as above. This has several versions.

Liquid latex
Yes, liquid latex can be an adhesive, though after several hours, will start to come off on its own. When used with foam latex appliances, actually makes the appliance stronger, due to the latex buildup.

superglue/cyanoacrylates
Let's face it... We all love this stuff for various reasons. How many of you have glued your fingers together or onto something, or worse? This is NOT the stuff to use for putting appliances on your face unless you want to have it on for a long while til you shed enough skin for it to come off. This, folks, is NOT a pretty sight.

other adhesives?
A medical supply house may have something you can use, but as always, ask questions about the product. There are variations of adhesives that will come off with water, to some that won't come off til you've shed some skin.

25.3 - Application of the prosthetic/appliance
===============================================

Page showing the basics of applying a foam latex appliance - http://frighteners.com/foam2.html

This is one of those procedures with varying degrees of difficulty, depending on the size of the piece. Some are small enough, to just put on and you simply forget it's there, staying on as long as you want it. Some are larger, requiring a little time to put it on. Makeup artists have been known to take several hours just to apply facial pieces including makeup.

What you want to use as your adhesive, is up to you. You can use liquid latex, spirit gum, telesis, prosthetic adhesive, or medical adhesive. The last three are the strongest, and best for larger appliances. The last two are great for a long-lasting hold, and I mean LONG!

25.4 - Makeup
==============
In any case, you will want to apply the makeup to your appliance while it's on your face, rather than it off. The most important thing to remember in using makeup with foam latex/slushcast, is that it must contain castor oil. Anything else will destroy the appliance. Waterbased makeups can be used without problems as well. If you want to use something that doesn't contain castor oil, like mineral oil, pick up on some castor sealer and apply, or just put a thin layer of castor oil on the appliance.

With some larger appliances, you may want to apply the makeup with it off, so you can see some details better than in the mirror.

A most interesting little tidbit of info here... The womens makeup department of various stores will have some castor oil-based items, like eyebrow pencils. Don't laugh. There's some suiters out there who actually use this stuff every now and then. These are cheaper than the ones at the costume shops, and are great for detailing on the appliances.

Great-looking makeup takes time, and sometimes you will not want to use your fingers to do this. Latex triangles and brushes are great for the application, as well as the blending. When boogi applies the Mutant Cat makeup, it's not unusual for him to use several of these. It takes him around 60-90 minutes just to put the appliance on and do the makeup. Straight makeup can take at least 30-45 minutes, though it is not unusual for a good detailed job to take 1-2 hours. A good makeup job takes time.

In any case, you will want to 'set' the makeup, by applying powder, and brushing off the excess. This will keep the makeup from becoming all smeary and sticky to the touch. Use a powder puff and facial brush, which can most easily be found in the makeup area of most stores. Never mind that it's claimed to be for women, it's great for this.

Not sure who wrote this:
The Bob Kelly Company makes a make-up called "Rubber Mask Greasepaint" that is designed to work on latex masks and appliances. It comes in a variety of colors, and most theatrical supply house carry it. Most acrylic make-ups (i.e. water-based) will work on latex, but not all of them will adhere well. Experiment first.

25.5 - Removal of makeup and appliances
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Do you really want to do this? You just spent an hour or more just applying the makeup and making it look good, and in a short time, destroy what you've just done.

Depending on what was used, you can use oil- or water-based removers, cold cream, or just plain soap and water, to remove the makeup. Removal of the appliances, is something different.

Removal of an appliance with spirit gum, can simply be pulled off, CAREFULLY, or use spirit gum remover or rubbing alcohol. Removing one with pros-aide or medical adhesive, is more involved, and takes more time. You will need Bond-Off, Detachol, or in some cases, rubbing alcohol. Do NOT hurry the process. Use some q-tips, cotton balls, or related to help remove it. A full facial prosthetic can take about 30 minutes to remove. Some larger ones can take more time to remove. Start with the top of the appliance, and work your way down. Patience is the key here. You do not want to tear an expensive foam latex appliance. When boogi removes his appliance, it takes him about 20 minutes.

25.6 - Cleaning of appliances
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Depending on how dirty or how much makeup your appliance has on it, you may want to clean it. Soap and water will usually do the trick. A little time will do it as well.

Cleaning a foam latex prosthetic requires time and patience. Don't expect to get *ALL* the makeup off, as there will be some left. No matter what, do NOT wring the appliance, as you can tear it that way. You can squeeze it out of water, but make sure all soap is gone. You'll have a messy sink with makeup on it, yes, but that can also be cleaned off with rubbing alcohol or some good bathroom cleaner. Place the appliance in a towel, and press down on the towel, to take out excess water. Then set it aside to dry, as this can easily take a few hours.

From: Nightsky Bluewyrm
Subject: FL: Update on Lyonshel project (kinda long but GOOD!)

Hey, a big thanks and kittypurr to all those who wrote with advice re repainting a Lyonshel appliance. Keep reading, there's a surprise at the end of the post!

>From: Tobias Schweitzer/Aragon Tigerseye
>
>Well, I had some problems with the paint flaking off my "great cat" appliance from lyonshel a while agon, so I mailed Rick and he replied:
>"I use water based airbrush paint by Createx and I mix in a bit of Adhesive to help the paint last longer on the foam."

Yes - I spoke with Rick and he said he just uses Liquitex acrylic paint (available in any craft store) and a little bit of the Fang (pros-aide) adhesive mixed in to paint with. I believe that's what he uses in his airbrush.

>Rick wrote about removing the paint:
>"If you want to remove the paint, immerse in water and gently scrubb and rub off the paint. Using a little soap will make it easier.

I appreciate this advice. Although I was a bit leery of scrubbing a latex appliance, no matter how gently. It's such a fascinating appliance... I've never worn one before and I really think it's cool. I just have to be careful taking it on and off, as it has a tendency to stick to the back of my fingernails. I don't wear nail polish. I mention this because I know hot glue will really adhere to my nails if I have nail polish on. So if anyone else is considering using this appliance (and I highly recommend Lyonshel) just be careful to peel VERY SLOWLY so it doesn't rip!

>Rick about permanent colouring of the mask:
>
>"If you want a permanant, long lasting paint, you need to mix rubber cement,
>rubber cement thinner, and universal colorants (like Tints-All). This mixture
>will bite into the Foam and make it rub proof. (I dont use this because I have
>to do so much painting on a daily basis and this mixture is not
>healthy for that kind of exposure.) "

>From: Ysengrin Werewolf
>I'll second that warning - this mix is pretty toxic until it dries (and has
>long term effects). Use with a lot of ventilation and at least a dust mask
>to avoid breathing in the "cobwebs" the stuff makes coming out of an
>airbrush - if you use it at all.

Eww, no doubt! I figure acrylics would be permanent enough for my application, and probably everyone else's. It's not like I'm gonna be in The Dark Crystal or anything. (Saw that last night for the second time... WOW.)

>From: "Kamau"
>
>I'd suggest contacting them. I've had several dealings with them and they
>have always been very responsive and helpful.

Kamau, you are right. I did call Rick and have a couple e-mails with him about it. He was fantastic (as you will see below.) I highly recommend that anyone with any questions like this take the time to call or email him. He will get in touch with you immediately. He has a strong sense of making customers happy.

>It's a busy time of year for them right now so that may be why things got
>messed up but I think they'll make it right by you.

Oh, I didn't mean to imply that he'd messed anything up! The problem was that I was looking for an appliance that was colored more like a true snow leopard, and what Lyonshel sells with the name "Snow Leopard" is just a regular Leopard mask but only in black and white. No yellow. Kind of like the way a white tiger is a black and white tiger, this was a black and white leopard. They didn't mess anything up at all - it was just that their product wasn't what I wanted.

Klix, you have one of these, right? Any tips you (or anyone else) can offer on its use? I was told by a non-fur to get something called "No Sweat" and put it on my face to prevent the appliance from absorbing all my sweat.... should I just put anti-perspirant on my face? EW! Will it still stick??

OK, now on to the surprise.

Yesterday, I was looking at this white leopard face, and trying to figure out if I could paint it, did I have enough skill and time, etc. etc. I wrote him and said while it was a lovely piece of work, it wasn't exactly what I was looking for, and would it be ok if I exchanged it for a blank one? He sent me a really nice email apologising. Said he wasn't used to his customers being unhappy and was about to ship me TWO blanks. I was like "Whoa!" So I called Rick and we talked about it.

I inquired about a custom paint job, which only would have been $20 extra, but he said he didn't think he could get it done in time for me. (I need it for next weekend.) He explained what kind of paints he used, and I decided I'd send back the white leopard and take the two blanks, plus a little extra adhesive to mix in with the paint. This way I could at least try to paint it myself and have a spare if I messed up.

While we were talking, I made sure to explain that there was nothing technically wrong with his work, just that I was looking for a snow leopard, and how their facial spot patterning is different from regular leopards, and he said yeah, that the Lyonshel "snow leopard" was really just the regular Leopard, but in white. We ended the conversation on a good note.

Imagine my surprise when later in the afternoon I got email from Rick with an attachment of four photos. He said he had cracked open some books, sat down with the paints, and did the results please milady? The photos showed a newly painted appliance that actually was grey and spotted like a real snow leopard! I was ecstatic! It was exactly what I was looking for. I couldn't believe it.

Needless to say, I emailed him back and the appliance is going in the mail today.

Consequently, I have to say that if you are thinking of being a cat, any kind of cat, please do check out http://www.lyonshel.com/ and consider Rick. He has an understanding of customer satisfaction that is lost by many folks today. From tiger to tabby, alley cat to King of the Jungle, please, consider his fantastic work. He will work with you to give you what you want. Artists and gentlemen like him need and deserve our support!

Thanks for reading all the way down.
Thanks for all the tips. :)

MEOW and ttys!

25.7 - Repairing the appliances
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Foam latex can easily be repaired with liquid latex. The trick is to apply it sparingly, so that the two parts to be joined will stick together. Then place it aside for a few hours. Too much latex will cause the join to show up as a bumpy line or area.

Tears in vinyl or slushcast items are another story. If you have the patience to put the edges back together, you can do it. Otherwise, it will be a very difficult repair job, and the appliance may or may not be usable.

25.8 - Contact lenses
======================

Contact lens resource page - http://www.best-contact-lens.com/

Sources for contact lenses - See section 99.14 .

As always with contact lenses, NEVER SHARE THEM, as getting eye infections are definitely not fun. Neither should you get them from a street vendor or boutique, nor try on the sample contacts, as those so-called sample contacts will be DIRTY! Vision is a precious thing. Before you even buy lenses, get an eye exam, and have the doctor give you the prescription.

However, you *can* try the sample disposable ones at the optometrist's office. These are there to let people see if they can wear contacts, and they are light color change ones.

According to Contact Lenses Online, if you wear glasses and haven't had an eye exam in a while, go ahead and have your exam but make sure you find a doctor who will release the contact lens prescription. Now, the doctor most likely won't release a prescription for the cat's eyes because they won't be ordering it and dispensing it. They may instead give a prescription for another type of lens. The smartest thing to do is to be fitted for the Wesley Jessen opaque lenses and get a prescription for them. They are pretty close to the cat's eye contact lens design. If the doctor still won't comply, at least get the keratometry (K's) readings along with the spectacle prescription

If the doctor won't give you the prescription, you have legal recourse - http://www.1800contacts.com/docAndRx/DocRx-release.shtml

From: Ann Garner
Don't get your first pair of contacts the day before the event and expect to be able to wear them. If you don't normally wear contacts, you will have to have a "breaking in" schedule. For hard contacts this can be up to a week to wear them comfortably.

If you are wearing contacts as part of the costume, take along a tiny flashlight when you wear them. The easiest way to find a lost contact on any type of floor is to shine a flashlight along the floor. The light should sparkle off the lense.